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Surfing is the only type of sport where the
person relies on the wave to pick them up and
for them to do tricks. Unlike body boarding
and kite surfing you have to stand up fast before
the wave breaks on you so you can get down the
line and do your tricks on the wave.
Surfing first had started way back in Hawaii
when Captain James cook was on the island. The
boards they used back then were made from heavy
thick wood so it made them hard to even paddle
out. They were later made from other materials
but not till way later when the modern short
board came into play. After the short board
came into the picture it changed surfing forever.
Surfers could then use smaller boards but they
would still float the same way as the others.
Except now they could catch waves fast and do
tricks that they had never done before. The
boards allowed them to get down the line faster
then ever so they could do new aerial tricks.
The airs first started in California and places
like that then other surfers started to do the
same tricks so they changed surfing like never
before. If you were to look at surf videos today
and look at surfing videos from back in the
day like the 60s and 70s you will see the difference.
Swells and waves are created from wind blowing
over a long distance. That's what makes the
swells travel until they hit the beaches in
which we surf today. Like when you were to have
a hurricane the wind would be blowing hard and
fast out at sea but 50 to 100 miles inshore
the waves would be pounding the shores. Hurricane
surf is good because you are like guaranteed
good clean offshore surf sometime or another
when the hurricane gets close. Other types of
swells are ground swells which just pop up over
night from a low pressure or something like
that. Other than that waves are made from wind.
You will see the difference between a surfer
who can ride the wave and one who just can't
catch the wave before it breaks. The one who
can catch the wave before it breaks on them
and gets in front of the barrel of the wave
will be the one to show you how to surf. Like
me I would drop into the face at an angle so
I would gain better speed so then when I stood
up I would already have a good amount of speed
then I would do a few little pumps down the
line then do a huge lip slide or off the lip.
You are not limited to what you can do on a
wave when its chest to head high surf and walling
up down the beach. All you do is catch it then
speed down the line and perform some sick trick
that gets everyone hooting and then paddle back
out.
About the Author
Gregg Hall is an author living with his
18 year old son in Jensen Beach, Florida. Find
more about surfing as well as water
sports gear at http://www.nsearch.com
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